Відео

i've only had to change wheels when the bearings came loose (tires came off the rims so to speak) which caused an uncorrectable wobble to the carriage. when looking for replacements i just went with PC because i assumed they were better. they are definitely harder than POM, which means the eccentric nut adjustment is much trickier because it can go from totally loose to over tightened in about maybe 10-30 degrees of wrench turn. the dust they make is also finer and looser. good and bad on that. the dust can fall off at any time and pepper the bed whereas POM dust is sticky and will stay on the rail. at least it is white so it is very visible on black extrusion and the bed.

After some tinkering with Klipper, the stock creality ender 3 hotend will reliably do at least 25mm3/s. I mean, im able to print at 160mm/s with 0.32 layer height and 0.5mm extrusion width at 210°C without any sign of underextrusion. My main problem was actually layer shifting because acceleration was too high (8200) so the stepper was losing steps. Now with acceleration at 7100 theres no more missing steps and i can reliably do 160mm/s on an Ender 3, direct drive with stock extruder and printed adapter, 1.1.4 8bit mainboard with BLTouch and Klipper+Mainsail. Oh yeah, the steppers barely reach 50°C.

just get to the point and stop being dramatic. im 10 minutes in and learned nothing. is the point of this video to waste our time?

30mm fan inside to evenly spread it around

Maybe run some cf pla or any abrasive filament through a new nozzle just to give it a polish to start with. And if you've seen any sublime layers vids, he dresses the tips of new nozzles with denim or a strop just to clean them.

You said it's an open source printer. I've visited their website...i couldn't file any step file of the design nor documentation. I've just found a very poor wiki page

I figured out which ones which by just looking at the stringing because you can tell when it retracts that it's having an issue

slickthreeahr? i think its pronounced "slicer" the 3 is a placeholder for E. like 7 for T. gotta love softfever, he made my x1c be able to use an x1e feature with chamber temp setting. SWEET plus all the other extended options for perfectionists. mmm 0rk4zL1C3r what resolution and deviation are you slicing at with orca sir? if you use the stock 0.049 and 0.012 you are loosing out on surface quality for sure. i have sliced pretty much all models with 0.001 and 0.001 arc off, classic. for me i get very very pretty walls. 7:33 the scarfed contour was the one on the left ;) the seamline was straight as it was a a straight wall. an afterthought after watching this interesting video; if the first problem arises and your solution does not help i wonder if printing the infill first will have similar effect, as that usually prints pretty fast so the pressure and temp has time to settle for the outerwall. thanks for making my greys work buddy. like this

As a (old, retired) photographer I can appreciate the pains you took to deal with the DOF issues. The bespoke ring-light is brilliant (no pun intended). I came to the world of 3D printing when my son lent me his old printer to make some things I need for my other hobbies. Like any endeavour, so much to learn. Thanks for taking the time to make an in-depth study on something I, and perhaps others, take as a given. Nozzle, of course I've got a nozzle...

Quack 🦆

I have one too and I love it, whatever fits on the build plate I do with it.

I think people would watch more of your videos if they were more concise, esp. the voice-overs

Nice video. Is there a 3rd video on printing faster?

Great video, that looks like a lot of work. Thanks for sharing! When talking about nozzles, perhaps we should move away from the diameter as the only value and replace it by the area of the hole and another metric to represent the roundness of the hole (Fourier Descriptor perhaps)?

It was $39 and I waited too long and the flash sale is over! WTF!

I use both E3D genuine nozzles and good quality clones. I can never tell the difference. There are clone nozzles that exist that are good quality. But hey $5 for 25 nozzles is going to get you useable prints that are not as good but still useable. A single $50 nozzle is not going to be way better. Bottom line, use what you can afford. If you like wasting money and it makes you feel better, go for it.

Solder Paste and an oven works wonders for SMC's.

I'm surprised I was correct for the quiz. Great vid 🎉

this helps so much, I will watch again and follow along once my tpu comes in the mail

Dude! You have a very sharp British humor. I like it! So, maybe I missed it, but does a square orifice have any effect on corners? I notice that printing something like a cube creates roundish corners that bulge out just a little. It seems to me that a square nozzle hole could improve that. What do you think? Also, just wondering, but is "extrudate" a real word?

tool is for wire wrap on pins, yes i'm that old

The nozzle with the groove that left a clean ridge on top of the the extruded line opens up an interesting opportunity for creating cross linking between layers that goes beyond the normal standard single planar surface. Having it shaped like a + or * would ensure ridges are created regardless of orientation of the line relative to the nozzle groove. It could act like chopped fibers do to create linkage between layers.

That Diamondback is a thing of beauty. Among my (ever expanding) collection of nozzles, I have a 0.6mm. I like it. Once again, I love seeing these photographic videos from your channel. (Yes, I'm writing this midway through the video, but I know I'll enjoy the rest as well.) Keep up the good work.

This kind of explains why I encountered a small bit of brass that clogged my smaller nozzle on my home recycled filament. Seems like it just came off a new brass nozzle.

i got all exvept the x right. slighlty less strining and sharper corners. but that being said i had to look hard and price wise as far as print quality go i would say not really worth it. plus im sure what i saw could be fixed by some slicer setting and input shaping.

The sheer amount of effort in this video and the kit used is a signature of this channel. Above and beyond is all I can say. Congratulations

Thanks!

I think it would be interesting if some manufacturers should starting putting patterns on their nozzle tips to make different top surface finishes like at 21:05

I like how you got a bit cheekier with the spoken and written commentary. Might we ever see your face?

You made love to those nozzles.

I hate that when you are a beginner on 3D printing, there is NEVER a nice way to learn about supports. You will always be sent to the BAD way

Big vote for CHT and especially CHT clones. Using it for a long time and never seen issues with, but i never used the original one.

As a hobby photographer and 3D printer I really enjoyed your video. Thanks!

I'm going to marry a 0.4mm nozzle, Thanks a lot

Cheap nozzles are fine, but better ones are nicer. Plated copper ones flow a bit more and probably allows to better melt the plastic, but I fell in love with tungsten carbide. It will always be the same size as nothing can realli wear it out (not even filled filaments) and you can clean it quickly and effectively just torching it until it glows red hot

Incredible Video / Cinematic Quality. With some of the shots it felt a bit like an intro to a James Bond movie. And all that additionally to the quality of the information

NozzleHub

try telecentric lens

Thanks for the hard work.

I can gladly say that the Bondtech CHT BiMetal nozzle is the worst nozzle I've ever used :)

I've got Diamondback nozzles on all 3 of my printers. They work very well for me.

Any idea about CHT Nozzle sir

I don't get it why almost all those nozzles have a big champfer on the top where nozzle meets the heatbreak. This will significally decrease contact surface, potentially create plastic leaks, and creates the cavity for plastic to stay there and burn over time.

Interesting, since E3D makes Prusa nozzles.

This episode reminded me of a Mosin Nagant I had that would consistently jam with steel cased ammunition. When diving into why this would be, I found that the cause was the chamber was narrower as the reamer that reamed it back in 1936 was likely worn down from use. I ended up having to abrade very small amounts of material and polish the chamber little by little to get it working flawlessly. Trying to drill or ream holes in metal, even precise holes, is never as exacting as we'd like it to be. Reamers and drill bits get worn down as they are used in a factory setting and the first hole you drill with a brand new bit will be larger by some degree than the very last one drilled before retiring that drill bit. I imagine in a factory producing thousands or millions of nozzles, this is something that will come up. A factory producing nozzles that is very interested in absolute precision will swap out drill bits much more frequently than one that is not (and there will likely be an added expense to compensate for that). On the other hand, what you've shown here is that variance may not matter as much as we think it might, to a degree obviously, but it's still fun to nerd out over it.

I would love to see the effect of a hexagon nozzle aperture on layer adhesion strength. Or square. Love heart shape, anyway shape change really as perhaps a round hole isn't the best option.

quack🦆

I got perfect score until it got to the cubes and guessed wrong every time 😂

I assume the bubbles from the wedge are because the printer is extruding the amount needed for a specific thickness. If you have a wedge, in ever direction but one (tip moving with the high end in front, low end in back), the printer will be laying down more filament than it's supposed to, so you will get thick areas and then every so often it won't have enough filament to cover the area which will leave a gap. It will also blob up a lot, as it will be almost like you have the tip too far from the build plate.

Since you have a diamond back nozzle xan you please test it with PETG and with carbon fiber PETG filament to validate their claims it stops sticky filament boogers?